REITs & Cash
Your REIT Watch List, Rules, and the Cash Allocation
Turn your REIT analysis into a written list and a set of rules — then meet the last asset class, the one that exists so you never have to sell at a bad moment.
Two lessons of analysis, one list
You've done the work. You know what a real estate investment trust (REIT) is — a company that owns income-producing property, trades like a stock, and must pass most of its income through to shareholders. You know why funds from operations (FFO) rather than reported net income is how you read one. You know how to look at leverage, at return on assets (ROA), and at whether the cash flow behind the dividend is growing or quietly stalling.
None of that is a list. This lesson makes it one, and then writes the rules that govern it. After that we turn to the last asset class in your income portfolio — cash — which the first lesson of this course introduced and no lesson since has come back to.
Video coming soon
This lesson explains the idea in full without it.
A watch list is the set of investments your plan allows you to buy, filtered by criteria you set in advance. You built one for dividend stocks earlier in this course and the logic hasn't changed: the list exists before the money does, so that when cash shows up you're choosing from names you approved while you had nothing riding on the answer.
For REITs, the filter is the two analyses you already ran, stated as conditions:
- A ceiling on long-term debt to capital. Property is bought with borrowed money; the question is never whether a REIT is leveraged but how much, and whether you can live with it.
- Financial leverage inside a range you chose. Not a maximum — a range. Too little leverage on a property portfolio is its own statement about the business.
- A return on assets inside a range you chose. ROA is the read on whether management turns buildings into money.
- A dividend yield above a broad-market benchmark. Look up what the S&P 500 yields on the day you're screening and use that as your yardstick — it moves, so a number written here would be wrong by the time you read it. You want a REIT paying above that yardstick, not wildly above it. A yield that stands far out from every comparable REIT is a warning you haven't decoded yet, and reaching for yield is how income investors lose money.
- FFO and adjusted funds from operations (AFFO) that are positive and rising across recent periods. This is the one that isn't a threshold. You're not asking whether a number clears a bar; you're asking whether the trend of the cash the dividend comes out of is going the right way.
The specific numbers you plug into the first three came out of the last lesson, and they were choices. Reasonable investors set them differently. What matters is that they're written down and that a name gets on the list by passing them, not by being interesting.
How many REITs, and why five isn't a law
Your REIT allocation is probably the smallest slice of your income portfolio. That's normal, and it's not a reason to skip diversification inside it. A small allocation held in one REIT is still one bet.
Figure
How many you hold is a tradeoff you make, not one anyone makes for you. More holdings means more protection and more work: more to buy, more transaction costs, more evenings spent reading quarterly reports. One investor's guideline is a minimum of five REITs, mirroring the five-stock guideline from the dividend unit. That number is a habit, not a finding — nothing changes at four and nothing is proven at five. It's a way of saying "more than two."
The part the pie chart can't show is the same trap the dividend lesson flagged. Six REITs that all own shopping centers are one bet drawn six times. Spread across property types, or the diversification is decoration.
Entry rules: still not about the price
Entry rules say what has to be true before you buy. For REITs they look like the dividend rules, for the same reason: buy REITs that pass your criteria, up to your allocation limit, when you have cash.
No waiting for a dip. Market timing — trying to buy the bottom — isn't part of this. You're buying the dividend, and the dividend doesn't know what you paid.
The one thing worth checking on the way in is when the money lands. If you built a payment schedule earlier in this course — a plan for which months your income actually arrives — then two candidates you like equally are separated by which one fills an empty month. REIT dividend dates tend to be consistent enough to plan around, though "tend to be" is doing real work in that sentence. Past payment dates tell you the pattern. They don't oblige anyone to keep it, and no dividend is promised.
Exit rules: what would break the reason you bought it
This is the same idea as the dividend exit rule, and it's the idea worth carrying out of this whole course, so here it is again with real estate underneath it.
You bought a REIT to be paid. So the only question that triggers an exit is: what would make it stop paying?
Not the price falling. REIT share prices move with interest rates whether or not a single tenant misses rent — that's interest-rate risk, and it's a fact about the market's appetite for yield, not a verdict on the buildings. A REIT whose price is down and whose rent roll is intact hasn't told you anything.
What does tell you something:
- A dividend cut. The clearest one. Management just said it can't or won't keep paying what it was paying. A REIT is legally required to distribute at least 90% of its taxable income — so cutting the dividend is usually a signal that there's less income to pass.
- Leverage getting out of hand. Go back to the leverage lesson for why this one is specific to REITs. Long-term debt to capital climbing past the point where debt exceeds total capital means the borrowing has outrun the equity behind it. So does a secondary share offering with no growth to show for it — the company issued new shares, diluting the ones you own, and bought nothing that grows the rent with the money. Both are what financial stress looks like before it looks like a cut.
- Occupancy collapsing. Rent is the whole mechanism. If the buildings are emptying, the FFO trend that got the REIT onto your list is over, whatever the current dividend still says.
- Rebalancing. The dull one you'll use most. A holding grows past its target and you sell the overweight portion to buy back the underweight one. Nothing is wrong with the company. It just got too big.
The first three are deal breakers — conditions you decide in advance will end your reason for owning something. Write them down before you own anything, because they will fire on a day you'd rather they didn't.
One investor's REIT plan
Below is a plan written out. Every number, range, and frequency in it is one investor's choice. Copying it defeats the point: a plan you didn't reason through is a plan you'll drop the first time it costs you money.
| Part of the plan | One investor's version |
|---|---|
| Objective | Add real estate income and diversification to my income portfolio, sized to my REIT target |
| Watch list | REITs passing my leverage, ROA, yield, and FFO/AFFO criteria. Nothing enters without passing |
| Entry | Buy any watch-list REIT, up to its allocation limit, when cash is available. No timing. Prefer one that fills a gap in my payment schedule |
| Position limits | At least five REITs, spread across property types |
| Exit — deal breaker | A dividend cut; long-term debt exceeding total capital; a secondary offering with no accompanying growth; occupancy in sustained decline |
| Exit — routine | Sell the overweight portion when rebalancing; buy the underweight |
| Do not exit on | Price alone |
And the routine, which is what makes the plan a plan rather than a document:
| When | What you do |
|---|---|
| When a dividend is announced or changed | Note it. A cut is a deal breaker; a raise is confirmation |
| Quarterly, as reports arrive | Re-check FFO and AFFO per share, and occupancy. Is the trend still the one you bought? |
| At your rebalancing interval | Compare actual to target. Sell overweight, buy underweight. Run every holding against your deal breakers while you're in there |
| Annually | Re-read your own criteria. Do you still believe them, or have you been bending them one exception at a time? |
That closes the REIT sleeve. Which leaves one asset class, and it's the one most likely to matter to you this year.
The cash allocation, and why it isn't there to earn
Cash is the fourth asset class in an income portfolio, and it's the one everybody skips, because it looks like the boring part after three asset classes of analysis.
Start by throwing out the wrong mental model. Cash isn't dollar bills in a drawer. It's a family of places to hold money you might need soon: a savings account at a bank or credit union, a certificate of deposit (CD), a money market fund, a Treasury bill (T-bill). They differ in what they pay, how fast you can get at the money, and — this is the one that matters — what happens if the institution holding it fails.
Here's the argument for having any of it, and it's the only argument you need:
Cash's job in an income portfolio is not to earn. It's to mean you never have to sell something at a bad moment.
That's it. Everything else about the cash allocation follows from that sentence. The transmission goes at the same time the market is down 20%. If your money is all in REITs and dividend stocks, the market chooses when you sell. If three months of expenses are sitting in a savings account, nothing happens to your portfolio at all — you pay for the transmission and go back to work. The cash didn't earn you anything. It bought you the right to ignore the market on the worst possible week, and that's worth more than the interest it didn't pay.
Liquidity — how fast you can turn something into money without losing value — is the product you're buying. Not return.
What cash costs you
We are not going to tell you cash is safe. This course opened by making the opposite point, and we're not going to unmake it now to sell you a comfortable feeling.
Cash loses to inflation. The interest a savings account pays has, over long stretches, run behind the rate at which prices rise. That means money parked in cash is stable in nominal terms — the number on the statement doesn't fall — and shrinking in real terms, quietly, every year, with no bad day to point at.
That is not a bug you should try to fix by moving your emergency fund into something that pays more. It's the price. You're paying a small, certain erosion in exchange for liquidity you will actually use. That's a good trade for money you might need in six months, and a terrible one for money you won't need for thirty years. Which is exactly why cash is a slice of an income portfolio and not the whole thing.
The one distinction people get wrong
Here it is, plainly, because it is misunderstood constantly and it is the difference between covered and not:
FDIC insurance covers deposits. It does not cover investments.
A savings account at an insured bank is a deposit. So is a CD at an insured bank. If the bank fails, federal insurance covers your balance up to a limit — $250,000 per depositor, per insured bank, per ownership category. Read that phrase slowly, because each part of it is doing work: the limit applies to you at one bank, and separate categories of ownership at that bank are counted separately. The FDIC's own site is where to confirm it applies to your accounts the way you think it does.
A money market fund is not a deposit. It's a mutual fund that holds very short-term debt. It feels like cash, it's used like cash, it may sit in the same account as your cash — and it is not FDIC insured. Nothing about being adjacent to your cash makes it a deposit.
What a money market fund held at a broker does have is SIPC protection, up to $500,000 per customer — including a $250,000 sub-limit on cash. Read what that covers before you file it as "same thing." SIPC exists for the case where your broker fails and your securities go missing — it's about custody, about getting your holdings back. It does not insure the value of what you own. Nothing insures the value of what you own. That's what owning it means.
The lineup
| Where you can hold cash | What it pays | How fast you can reach it | FDIC insured? |
|---|---|---|---|
| Savings account (bank or credit union) | Usually the lowest of the group, and the bank sets it — it can change any day, in either direction | Same day or next day | Yes, up to the limit |
| Certificate of deposit (CD) | Fixed for the term, and usually above a savings account — that premium is what you're paid for committing the money | Not until it matures, without a penalty | Yes, up to the limit, at an insured bank |
| Money market fund | Moves with short-term rates, so it rises and falls without anyone telling you | Typically a day or so | No. It's a fund, not a deposit |
| Treasury bill (T-bill) | Set at auction — what you earn is fixed once you buy it | At maturity, or sell it before then at whatever it fetches | No — it's a government obligation, a different thing entirely |
There are no rates in that table on purpose. What these four pay moves with short-term interest rates, and the ordering between them isn't fixed either — there are stretches when a savings account beats a money market fund and stretches when it doesn't. Check the bank's own page, the fund's page, and TreasuryDirect on the day you're deciding. That's a five-minute job and it beats any number printed in a course.
Read the last column top to bottom. Two of these four are deposits and two are not, and nothing about the way they're presented to you in an account makes that obvious.
CDs: the trade you're actually making
A certificate of deposit (CD) is a bank deposit at a fixed rate for a fixed term. You hand the bank money for six months, a year, five years; it pays you a rate set in advance, typically better than a savings account.
The trade is exactly that: a fixed rate in exchange for committing the money. That's the deal in both directions. If rates fall, you locked in a good one and you're pleased. If rates rise, you're stuck at yesterday's rate watching better ones go by. And if you need the money before the term is up, you pay an early withdrawal penalty. Penalties are usually quoted as a chunk of the interest you would have earned, and they're typically larger on longer terms — but the exact formula is set by the bank and written into the disclosure you sign. Read it before you sign rather than after, because on a short-term CD you haven't held long, the penalty can eat into what you deposited, not just the interest.
Notice what that does to the whole argument for cash. A CD is less liquid than a savings account. Liquidity was the entire reason for the cash allocation. So a CD is a fine place for cash you're fairly confident you won't need for the term — and a poor place for the emergency fund, because the emergency is precisely the moment the penalty applies.
One way investors square this: hold several CDs with staggered maturities, so one comes due every few months rather than everything landing at once. That's the same laddering idea from the bonds unit, applied to deposits. It buys back some liquidity without giving up the fixed rate.
T-bills, commercial paper, and the money that sits between decisions
Two more things live in a cash allocation, and they're both short-term lending.
A Treasury bill (T-bill) is a short-term U.S. government bond — terms from days up to about a year. It doesn't pay a coupon. You buy it below face value and get face value back at maturity; the gap is your return.
Commercial paper is the same shape, issued by large corporations and banks instead of the government: short-term unsecured debt, sold at a discount, repaid at face value. Because it's unsecured, in practice only issuers with strong credit ratings can find buyers at all — which tells you what to check. Your broker can buy both for you.
Then there's the money that isn't doing anything yet. Sell a holding, or fund the account, and the cash sits there between decisions. Most brokers offer a cash sweep — uninvested cash gets moved automatically into something that pays a little interest instead of nothing. The two common destinations are an insured bank deposit account and a money market fund, and now you know why that distinction matters enough to look up which one your account uses. Eligibility and options vary; the question to ask isn't "does my broker have a sweep," it's "what is my cash swept into, and is that a deposit or a fund?"
Where this leaves you
That's the fourth asset class, and the end of this course.
You've been through the whole loop four times now: dividend stocks, bonds, REITs, cash. Each time the shape was the same — understand what the thing is, learn to read whether the income behind it is real, build a list before you have money, decide how much goes in each name, and write down in advance what would make you sell. The mechanics changed. The method didn't.
The one idea underneath all of it: you bought these to be paid. So what ends a position is the payment breaking, not the price moving. If that sentence is the only thing you keep, you've kept the part that's hardest to learn and most expensive to learn late.
Now the honest part. A course cannot make you an income investor. It can't tell you what to buy, it doesn't know your situation, and it hasn't watched you sit through a bad quarter — which is where plans actually get tested, and where most of them quietly get abandoned. The numbers here were illustrations. The sample rules were one person's choices. Nothing in this course knows what your life needs from your money.
What you have is a way of thinking that most people never get handed, and enough vocabulary to ask a real question and understand the answer. That's not nothing — it's the thing that was being kept from you. Use it slowly. Start with the emergency fund, because that one is real and it's this month. And when a decision gets big enough that being wrong would hurt, that's a good moment to talk it through with someone who has to act in your interest.
Key takeaways
- A REIT watch list is your leverage, ROA, yield, and FFO analysis written down as criteria — built before you have money, so that when you do, you're choosing from names you approved while you were still objective.
- REIT exits are triggered by the income thesis breaking, not by the price: a dividend cut, leverage climbing past what the equity supports, occupancy collapsing. A REIT whose price fell with interest rates while its buildings stayed full hasn't told you anything.
- Cash isn't in an income portfolio to earn. It's there so an emergency never forces you to sell something on the market's worst week. Liquidity is what you're buying — not return.
- FDIC insurance covers deposits, not investments. A savings account and a bank CD are deposits. A money market fund is a fund, not a deposit, and is not FDIC insured no matter how much it acts like cash.
- Cash reliably loses ground to inflation. That's not a flaw to fix by chasing yield with your emergency fund — it's the price of liquidity you'll actually use, and it's worth paying for money you might need soon.
Check your understanding
Question 1 of 5